Zion and Bryce - A Summer Roadtrip

Zion and Bryce Canyon are two of my favorite National Parks in the Southwest.  Zion epitomizes everything that I love about the desert: hugh sandstone cliffs, the Virgin River cutting it's own path down the canyon, and wildlife that manages to carve out an existence in such a dry environment. 

Zion Canyon is a spectacular place. We did a four mile hike with Kellen and Mei to the lower and upper Emerold pools.  It was awesome.  It was hot (100 degrees) and both kids were champs.

Hiking near the Virgin River.

Kellen took this shot of a small waterfall at the lower Emerald Pool.

Mei trying to cool off.

The ampitheater surrounding the Upper Emerald Pool.

After two great, but hot, days in in Zion we packed up the car and drove to Bryce.  The two parks are only about 90 minutes apart which made this a very easy leg of the trip.
Even though the word "Canyon" is in the title, Bryce isn't really a canyon.  Bryce is really an escarpment that runs North and South for about fifteen miles.  The rock being eroded has soft, easily eroding layers mixed with more weather resistant layers.  The resulting geologic features are amazing.

The family on the rim trail at Bryce Canyon NP.

Hiking in Bryce.

Just another spectacular view from the Navajo Loop Trail.

While in Bryce we hiked the kids around the Navajo Loop Trail.  It is quite spectacular and in just over three miles it takes in many spectacular views.  Mei endured in the backpack while Kellen really enjoyed this hike. 

Kellen at the first tunnel.

Hoodoos.

Kellen hiking in Bryce Canyon.

Kellen and Kerry in the "Narrows" in Bryce Canyon

After two nights of camping in Bryce we packed up the car and drove to the furthest southern point in the park.  We finished our trip by walking a short loop with more spectacular views and Bristlecone Pines. 

Mancation to Basalt CO

"You might want to lower your seat for this part."  My buddy Ryan was giving me some advice about an up coming mountain bike descent.  I have learned over the years that Ryan's advice is pretty spot on.  I started dropping my saddle immeadiately.  Fifteen minutes and 2500 feet of descending later we arrived back at the car with smoking hot disc brakes and permagrin.  The tone was set for the rest of the trip.

On Monday June the 6th I left our house in Flagstaff with two pairs of skis and my mountain bike heading for Basalt Colorado.  A very good friend, Ryan Bradley, lives in Basalt and he would be my guide over four days of sking and mountain biking in the Rockies. 

Ryan sking at Independence Pass Colorado.

Ryan is a master of almost every outdoor sport.  He rock climbs, ice climbs, mountain bikes, skis, and paddles a kayak.  He has summitted nearly every Cascade Volcano and has been to the top of Denali in Alaska.  Ryan also teaches middle school science, coaches wrestling, and teaches a GED course.  The story that sums up Ryan best unfolded during a climb that he and I did in Zion six years ago called Lunar Ecstacy.  At the end of our first day I climbed one last pitch by headlamp to have a head start on out summit day.  When I finished the pitch and rappelled back to the belay I could not believe what I found:  Ryan had the port-a-ledge set up, my sleeping bag laid out, and a freshly made sandwich ready for me to eat.  I felt pretty taken care of.  The last pitch of the route was supposed to be mine, but by the top of the route I was pretty much mentally and physically done.  Ryan led the last pitch, which was difficult, and then carried the majority of the gear down the descent trail.  Ryan is basically a great guy.

For this trip, the plan would be for me to drive to Basalt and ride bikes on the first day.  The second and third days we would ski in the morning and ride in the afternoon.  The fourth day would be spent riding in the town of Fruita Colorado and then the long drive home. 

All road trips start with a drive.  It is an eight and a half hour trip from Flagstaff to Basalt Colorado.  I left early and drove through Moab Utah along the way.

Sunrise, Northeast of Flagstaff.

River Road outside of Moab.

The excitement built as I drove through Southern Utah and past one of my favorite rock climbing locations, Indian Creek.  I quickly passed through Moab Utah and found myself driving along next to the Colorado River.  The Colorado was running high:  basically bank to bank.  I tried to snap off a picture or two while keeping my eyes on the road.

The Colorado River just outside of Moab.

After a few more hours I arrived in Glenwood Spring and met up with Ryan.  We quickly changed, prepped bikes and shuttled cars in order to ride The Boy Scout Trail.  The Boy Scout Trail starts off with several hunderd feet of climbing before starting one of the best single track descents I have ever ridden.  This six inch wide single track trail initially follows the natural contours of the mountain for quite some time.  The north facing aspects of the trail felt like the Pacific Northwest.  Ferns, lots of vegetation, and a nice almost damp trail characterized these sections.  In stark contrast the south facing portions were covered in sage brush and served as a reminder that even Colorado can be quite dry.  After traversing along this trail for several miles the trail then abruptly drops more than 2000' in about three miles into downtown Glenwood Springs.  I heated up my disc brakes to flesh searing levels during this white knuckle descent. 

This video (set to Iron Maiden!) captures most of the trail pretty well.  http://vimeo.com/24382606

After a quick run in with one of Glenwood's finest (Bradley talked his way out of a ticket!) we drove the speed limit up to Basalt.  Ryan coached his wrestling practice while I relaxed and hung out. 

We then drove to Carbondale and rode another awesome single track called Prince Creek.  This ride is set just south of Carbondale and follows a rushing creek (in AZ it would be a river for sure...) for several  miles of single track bliss.  On our first lap we took a variation called the Monster Gully.  This is certainly the most unique single track I have ever been on.  The trail drops into a dry wash and banks it's way up and down the sides of the wash as you speed downhill.  I was again blown away by how cool the trail riding was in this area.

After fantastic mexican dinner, Ryan and I colapsed upon arriving at his cabin, which is situated a few miles above Basalt.  The next day I awoke to this view from Ryan's place:

The view from Ryan's front yard.

A 12' high van (for scale) driving up to
Independence Pass.

Ryan and I packed the car with skis and took off for Independence Pass.  The pass sits just above 12,000 ft  and lies between Aspen and Leadville.  With a short amount of hiking you can ski runs as long as 1500'.  With some real hiking and skinning the runs quickly become much longer. 

Ryan and I spent the better part of the day sking sweet avalanche chutes that head off to the South, East, and North of the pass.  In typical Ryan form he saved the day early on.  Our first run was a bit steep right at the top and I was not feeling confident on my skis.  This was only my second run on skis since tearing my ACL fifteen months ago.  Ryan talked me down through the steep stuff and until I started feeling comfortable enough to begin linking turns.

The snow was perfect and there was hardley a cloud in the sky.

Looking down the Aspen side of the pass.

So much to ski and so little time...

Looking back to the road up the pass.

Each run deposited us back at the road.  All you do is take off your skis, put out your thumb, and wait for a ride.

Waiting for a ride...

After five runs, some long (1,500 ft) and some short (800 ft) we drove back down to Basalt.  This time Ryan took me mountain biking on Red Mesa which is in Carbondale.  With a full morning of sking under our belts the initial 800ft climb out of the parking lot was a pretty good punch to the face.  Ryan and I both endured and after 25 minutes of climbing we reached the top of the mesa.  Ryan led me on a twisting and turning tour of the trail network on Red Mesa.  The trail cut through open fields of sagebrush and then would dive through a forest of twisted Junipers.  One particular section dropped just below the rim of the mesa and hugged the hillside for what seemed to me forever.  Finally the trail ran out and we took in a great view of Carbondale and the surrounding mountains.  Once again Ryan said that I might want to lower my seat post for the final descent back to the car.  After ten minutes of brake squealing downhill we ended up back in the parking lot with yet another classic ride under our belts.

Day three started early, but by this time Ryan and I were both moving quite slowly.  We skied a fabulous south facing line off Independence Pass and then waited for nearly 45 minutes for anyone to pick us up.  Since much of the day had already evaporated we decided to ski one of the plumb lines and call it.  It only ended up being the best line of the week.  1,500 ft of nearly perfect corn snow in a fairly steep chute.  We ended up back on the road and then time got picked up within 1 minute.

One of the many chutes we skied near Independence Pass.

Ryan had to coach wrestling and teach his GED class that evening, so I took a drive up to Marble.  It may have been one of the most scenic portions of the entire trip.  The waterfalls were gushing and the views were awesome.

After Ryan took care of his teaching and coaching duties, we drove to Fruita, CO.  Fruita is home to some of the most unique Mountain Biking in the west.  We pulled in at about midnight, threw down our sleeping bags and were asleep by 1205. 

Morning came early and we were up with the sun and ready for more riding.  Ryan took me on a tour of several classic Fruita trails with the highlight being Zippity Do Dah.

Looking up Zippity Do Dah.

Steeper than it looks!

Ryan way out in front.

One of the steeper downhill sections.

The trails in Fruita generally follow ridgelines with steep up and downhill sections.  (Mostly downhill!)  The riding was unique, engaging and fun. 

This concluded the Mancation to Colorado.  Ryan and I snagged a quick breakfast in Fruita and I pointed the car West on I-70 for Moab and home.  Ryan went to a standing wave on the Colorado River with his Kayak to playboat for the better part of the afternoon. 

Coming home is always good.

Bryce Canyon National Park, June 2011.